• Description

FAQ s : Q: Why is there no digital display on the controller? A: a. Make sure the power cord is plugged into a working electrical receptacle b. The fuse may be blown; it is located at the rear of the chiller. Q: What size fuse do I need to replace a blown fuse? A: There are two types of fuses used for Aquarium Series Chillers 1. Chillers with a hardwired power cord and external black fuse cap a. DBA-075 – 10 Amp / 250 Volt Ceramic Fuse / Item No: DB-F2-10 b. DBA-150 - 10 Amp / 250 Volt Ceramic Fuse / Item No: DB-F2-10 c. DBE-200 - 15 Amp / 250 Volt Ceramic Fuse / Item No: DB-F2-15 d. DBM-250 - 15 Amp / 250 Volt Ceramic Fuse / Item No: DB-F2-15 2. Chillers with a disconnect power cord which has an ON/OFF switch a. DBA-075 – 10 Amp / 250 Volt Glass Fuse / Item No: DB-F-10 b. DBA-150 - 10 Amp / 250 Volt Glass Fuse / Item No: DB-F-10 c. DBE-200 - 16 Amp / 250 Volt Glass Fuse / Item No: DB-F-16 d. DBM-250 – 16 Amp / 250 Volt Glass Fuse / Item No: DB-F-16

Q: Why does my chiller take over an hour to drop the temperature?

A: Aquarium chillers are designed to gradually drop the water temperature, rapid temperature drops can adversely affect any living organism. You should be more concerned with the average cycle times of the chiller within a 24 hour period.

Example: A properly sized chiller should only cycle on 15-20 minutes an hour.

So in a 24 hour period the chiller would be running a total of 6-8 hours. It may be running for a 1.5 hours but it may stay off for 2-3 hours before the next cycle.


Q: What is the optimal flow rate for my chiller? A:

a.   DBA-075 (1/10 Hp) requires min/max of 240-960 gph b.    DBA-150 (1/5   Hp) requires min/max of 480/1320 gph c.          DBE-200 (1/4   Hp) requires min/max of 480-1920 gph d.    DBM-250 (1/3  Hp) requires min/max of 480-2400 gph


Q: What can I do to improve the efficiency of the chiller?

A: Regular maintenance is key for long term performance. Try these simple tips for tuning up your chiller:

a. Clean the front condenser fins to allow better airflow.

b. Increase the flow rate through the chiller. It is better to error on more flow than a slower flow rate to increase turnover of the warm water.

c. Back flush the chiller to prevent calcium build up on the heat exchanger will slows down the cooling performance.


Q: How do you Back Flush a chiller?

A: Over time, the titanium heat exchanger will accumulate calcium build up that will impede the cooling process. You may also have particulate matter and debris accumulating on the integrated temperature probe giving inaccurate readings. We recommend Back flushing the chiller every 6 months.

Step 1

Items needed:

a.   5 gallon bucket

b.   3 gallons fresh water

c.   1 gallon of household vinegar d.   Submersible pump

e.   Vinly tubing


Step 2

Add 3 gallons of freshwater and 1 gallon of household vinegar into bucket



Connect vinly tubing to the submersible pump and other end into the OUT” of the chiller

Connect vinly tubing to the IN of the chiller and place back into the 5 gallon bucket.


Step 4

Let the pump run through the chiller for 1 hour in the opposite direction. This will help clean the temperature probe as it is located on the IN of the chiller


Step 5

Turn off submersible pump after 1 hour, and discard liquid inside the bucket. Refill the bucket with

4 gallons of fresh water and run the submersible pump for another 30 minutes to remove any residual vinegar from the chiller.


Step 6

Reconnect chiller to original set up and re-program the set point back to your desired setting. Factory setting is 77F





Q: Why are the numbers on the temperature controller bouncing up and down? A: You may need to back flush the chiller as there may be waste build up. You may have a malfunction with either the integrated temperature probe or digital controller.




Q: Where is the Best location for my chiller?

A: Keep chillers in an open area outside the stand for proper ventilation. The chiller requires at least 1 foot in the front and rear of the chiller for unobstructed air flow.